Easy owl vest

Simple vest for the little one(s) in your life. The pattern is designed for toddler 4-6 years (height 45.5/18in, width 28in/71cm). I'm working on different sizes and may add them later or just use different hook size to make it larger/smaller. 

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*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: Fine/sport - 90% acrylic, 10% polyamide. The yarn I used is Ice Yarn Baby Model (may be replaced by yarn with similar thickness and lenght). 

Weight 100 gr. / 3.53 oz. per ball

Lenght: 330 m. / 360 yds. per ball
Gauge per yarn label: 22 stitches and 30 rows on 10 cm x 10 cm (4' x 4')
Color: cream brown shades

The green color is also Ice yarn but wool/acrylic combination with similar thickness, may be replaced with any matching color

Hook size: 4 mm/G (hook size conversion chart)

Stitches used: ch, sc, dc, fpdc, bpdc

Finished size: Toddler 4-6years, height 45.5/18in, width 28in/71cm

Colors used: Cream Brown Shades, solid green

Abbreviations:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

Notes:

- sc is used only for border line around neck and shoulders
- the vest is made from down to top with the neckline made at the end
- this is one piece, the only sewing part is for the shoulders at the very end
- each row alternates fpdc in the bpdc from previous row, followed by bpdc in the fpdc from previous row
- fpdc/bpdc decrease - similar to dc decrease(dc2tog), insert the hook to make fpdc/bpdc and draw a loop, yarn over and pull through first two stitches only, do not finish the stitch. Then continue with the next bpdc/fpdc st the same way - insert the hook and draw a loop, yarn over and pull through the first two stitches only. You will have 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all loops to finish off the decrease.

Pattern:

Round 1: Ch 122 (or any even number of st), join with ss, make sure you don't twist the chain. Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st around.
Round 2: Ch 1, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st *, repeat *-* around, end with ss in ch1.
Round 3: Ch 1, *bpdc in the fpdc from previous row, fpdc in the bpdc from previous row*, repeat *-* around, end with ss in ch1.
Round 4: Ch 1,  *fpdc in the bpdc from previous row, bpdc in the fpdc from previous row*, repeat *-* around, end with ss in ch1.

Repeat round 3 and 4 till piece measures 4.5in/11.5cm. 

***** (repeat pattern)
Join green and make 3 rounds of green alternating again round 3 and 4, just make sure to work fpdc in each bpdc from previous row, bpdc in each fpdc.

Join the main color again and work 3 rounds alternating round 3 and 4.

Join green and make 1 round alternating fpdc in each bpdc from previous row, bpdc in each fpdc.

With the main color again and work 3 rounds alternating round 3 and 4.
*****

Repeat the pattern between ***** and ***** one more time

Join green and make 3 rounds of green alternating again round 3 and 4, just make sure to work fpdc in each bpdc from previous row, bpdc in each fpdc.

Continue only with the main color alternating round 3 and 4 till the piece measures 12.5in/32cm 

Now is time to form the arm holes. To do them continue first with the front part, then the back part.

Split the piece to front part (60 st) and back part (60 st) and put markers on both ends. Now continue working on front part only.

Front part:
Row 1: Ch 1 and make fpdc/bpdc in the next st. Follow the rule fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row. Continue alternating bpdc/fpdc till the last two stitches of the row (before the stitch marker). Make 
 fpdc/bpdc decrease in the last two stitches (check the notes). Turn the piece.

Row 2, 3: Repeat row 1 decreasing at the beginning and at the end of the row.

Row 4-11: Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st (Follow the rule fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), continue alternating fpdc and bpdc till the end of the row, turn the piece.

Row 12: Now forming the neck, first on one side, then join the yarn on the other side and repeat the same.
Start from the edge of the row with ch 2, alternate fpdc and bpdc in the next 18 st. Turn.

Row 13: Ch 1 (to make decrease), fpdc/bpdc in next st(fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), turn.

Row 14: Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st(fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), fpdc/bpdc decrease in last two stitches, turn.

You should now have 16 stitches.
Continue
Row 15-18:Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st (fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), continue alternating fpdc and bpdc in the next 15 st. Turn.

Work the same piece on the other side of the vest.

Back part:

Row 1: Ch 1 and make fpdc/bpdc in the next st. Follow the rule fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row. Continue alternating bpdc/fpdc till the last two stitches of the row (before the stitch marker). Make 
 fpdc/bpdc decrease in the last two stitches (check the notes). Turn the piece.

Row 2, 3: Repeat row 1 decreasing at the beginning and at the end of the row.

Row 4 - 16: Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st (Follow the rule fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), continue alternating fpdc and bpdc till the end of the row, turn the piece.

Row 17: Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st (fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), continue alternating fpdc and bpdc in the next 15 st. Turn

Row 18: Ch 2, fpdc/bpdc in next st (fpcd in the bpdc st of previous row and bpdc in the fpdc of the previous row), continue alternating fpdc and bpdc in the next 15 st. Turn.

Repeat row 17 and 18 on the other side of the vest to form the neck

Sew the front and the back part together.

Borders: Make a border with sc stitches around the neck and the arms.

Owl: You may find the pattern for the owl I have added here. I have made small modifications to the pattern - I have made the eyes with leftover yarn - just mc with 6 sc inside, end with ss (make two of them and then sew them to the owl). I have also added yellow yarn to the ears.  

This is the owl on the vest

And the original owl pattern:

That's all.

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Toddler Pants

This is the first time I make crocheted pants and I am very happy with the result. Why pants - well, my toddler refuses to use any blankets at night. Every time I wrap him up with a blanket he wakes up and throw it angrily away. So I gave up and decided to make him warm crocheted pants for the cold nights instead of waking up every one, two hours just to wrap him up.

The pattern is for 4-5 years old kid. If you need for smaller kid you may go a size down of the hook or just remove few stitches from the starting chain.

*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: 100% merino wool, machine washable. 
Hook size: 5.5mm/I (hook size conversion chart)

Stitches used: ch, sc, hdc, ss, dc, dc increase, tr (or linked tr)

Finished size: 21in(53cm) long without the ribbing, 23in(58cm) with the ribbing on the bottom, 8.5in(22cm) wide at the waistband, 13in(33cm) at the widest part around the hips.

Colours used: black, brown, white, green (around 100gr green, 200gr brown, small amount of black and white)
Gauge: 13dc x 8rows of dc makes a swatch of 4.5in x 4.5in (10cm x 10cm)

Abbreviations:

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

ss - slip stitch

dc - double crochet

dc increase - double crochet increase

dc2tog - double crochet decrease

tr - treble/tripple stitch

ltr - linked treble/tripple stitch, there are few ltr st used in the pattern, if you are not familiar with ltr st you may check my tutorial or just replace them with simple tr stitches.

Notes: 

- For the yarn - it is important to make swatch not only to check the gauge but also to ensure the yarn is soft enough. The pants are also wide enough for  some thin soft lining (I have added thin fleece for additional warmth and softness).

- The pants are worked top down, the waistband and the elastic around the leg are crochet separately and then sewn.
- You may put whatever appliques you like but the upper part of the pants is designed to simulate a road.
- You may also leave the pants straight, no elastic on the legs. If you do so make sure they fit the height of the kid. With added elastic the pants may be slighly longer as they won't stumble the kid.

Pattern:

Waistband:

Ch 10, sc in second st from hook, sc till end (9st).

Row 2 - ch1, hdc in the the same st, hdc in the back loop only till end, turn.

Repeat row 2 till the piece measures 17in(43cm) long.

Sew both ends to form the waistband.  

I have added elastic to the waistband at the very end so the pants don't fall off the kid.

Round 1: Join brown and make a row of sc around the waistband (don't sew the elastic yet, leave it for the end). End with ss. I have ended up with 88 st - few more or less will not matter. Just make sure when you do next increase row you end up with 100 st at round 7 (round 4, 6 and 7 are increase rounds).

If you want to follow exactly the pattern you may first make the pants and then sew them to the waistband - just ch 89, sc in second st from hook, sc around and continue with the rest of the pattern. Sew the waistband to the pants at the end.

Round 2, 3: Ch2, dc is the same st, dc in each st around, ss at the end.

Round 4: Same as round 2 but with 4 dc increases spread evenly (2 at start and every 1/4th of the round).

Round 5: same as round 2

Round 6, 7: same as round 4 - round of dc with 4 dc increases spread evenly (100 st). Do not cut the yarn here, you may just transfer it after one row.

Round 8: Join white - ch1, hdc in the same st, hdc in next 5 st, *ch 4, skip 4 st, hdc in the 5th st, hdc in next 5 st*, repeat * - * till end, ss in ch 1.

Round 9: With brown ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 6 st, *tr, linked tr in the next 3 st - where the chain of previous round is, dc in the next 6 st *. Repeat * - * till the end of the round, ss at the end.

You may replace the linked treble st with a simple tr. However the ltr will hide perfectly the white chain from the previous round. 

Round 10 - 15: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st around. End with ss.

Round 16: Join black and repeat round 10. 

Round 17: Join green and repeat round 10.

Legs: Spread the stitches equally for both legs - put a marker on the 25th and 76th st. This is the border between the legs.

Ch 2, dc in the same st, work dc in the next 23 st, yo and insert the hook in both marked st, make dc. The next dc should be in the 77th st, continue working dc in every st after the 77th to form the first leg. You will have 49st for each leg.

Follow this pattern for the first leg, then repeat it for the second:

Round 1, 2, 3: Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in each st around, end with ss (49 st)

Round 4: Same as round 1 but with 2 dc2tog spread evenly in the beginning and the middle of the round, end with ss (47 st)

Round 5: repeat round 1.

Round 6: repeat round 4, decrease round (45 st).

Round 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 15, 16: repeat round 1.

Round 12, 14: repeat round 4 - decrease round.

Round 17: Join black and repeat round 1.

Round 18: Join white, ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each st around. End with ss.

Round 19 - 21: Join brown, repeat round 1.

Round 22: Repeat round 17.

Round 23: Repeat round 18.

Round 24 - 26: Repeat round 19.

Round 27: Repeat round 17.

Make the same for the second leg.

Elastic on the waist: cut around 20-21 in elastic and sew both ends so it makes a round. Sew it on the waistband as on the picture (the waistband is folded in two).

This is how the pants should look like now:

You may leave them this way or add elastics on the legs bottom.

Legs bottom:

Row 1: With black ch 9, hdc in second ch from hook, turn. Work in the back loop only.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the back loop of the same st, hdc in each st around. Turn.

Repeat row 2 till the piece measures 8.25 in, sew both ends together.

Make one more elastic for the second leg.

Sew the elastics to the bottom of the legs. The easiest way is to put 4 markers spread evenly on the elastic and 4 markers spread evenly on the leg bottom.

Then sew the elastic so you join at the markers.

 

Appliques - the appliques are the most important part of those pants. My little one is so excited about his pants with cars that it is really hard to take them offhim :)

You may find the pattern for the Police car here:

Jeep pattern:

That's all! If you enjoyed the pattern share it :)

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Jeep

This crochet jeep will make every little boy(or even girl) happy. It is a nice addition to every hat or any toddler garment and takes only a small amount of yarn (if you have scrap yarn left from another project this is where to spend it).

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*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.


Yarn: The yarn does not matter for this project. I have used 100% cotton with  hook in matching size
Hook size: 3mm (hook size conversion chart)

Stitches used: sc, ss, mc

Finished size: around 3.5in wide (9 cm)

Colours used: whatever you want for the jeep body, I have used blue and dark blue. You will also need yellow, red and white for the lights and the windows. Black, beige and white are used for the wheels.

Note: You need to know how to change the colours in the middle of the row. It is not really hard - it just need some practice. The general rule is simple - before working the last stitch and when you have only 2 loops on the hook grab the new color with your hook, then pull it through the 2 loops to finish off the stitch. And the colour is now changed to the new one you need.

You may also decide to transfer the yarn from the same colour or use few small balls of yarn for each section and crochet with the same yarn ball when you turn the work and make the next row.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 21, sc in second st from hook, sc in each ch till the end (20 st). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in each st till end (20 st). Turn.

Row 3 and 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 2 with dark blue.

Row 6: Repeat row 2 with blue.

Row 7: Repeat row 2 with dark blue.

Row 8 and 9: Repeat row 2 with blue.

Now the top part of the jeep. You will need here 2 small balls of white (or just transfer the white) and 3 blue (or again just transfer the blue). Do not cut the yarn between the different sections of white and blue but leave it free, make sure you don't twist it.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, join white and work sc in the next 5 st, just before finishing the last of the 5 sc grab blue yarn and pull it through the last 2 loops of the 5th sc. Make one sc with blue then work sc with white in the next 5 st. Join blue and make 3 more sc with blue. Turn.

Row 11: Now you need to do the same but on the opposite side - start with blue sc in the first 3 st, then 5 sc with white, 1 sc with blue, 5 sc with white and finish with 2 sc in blue. Turn.

Row 12 and 14: Repeat row 10.

Row 13 and 15: Repeat row 11.

Row 16, 17 and 18: With blue ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in each st till end. Turn.

Make a row of sc with blue all around the jeep body.

Wheels: 

Round 1: With white in mc ch 1, sc in the mc, make 7 more sc and join with a ss in the ch 1 (8 st)

Round 2: Join beige. Ch 1, sc in the same st, work 2 sc in each st, end with ss (16 st)

Round 3: Join black. Ch 1, sc in the same st, *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat * - * till the end of the round, end with ss (24 st).

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in the same st, * 1 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat * - * till the end of the round, end with ss (32 st).

Make one more wheel and sew them on the jeep.

Rear wheel:

Ch 8, sc in the second st from hook, sc till end. Turn.

Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc till end. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Sew the wheel on the "back" of the jeep.

With yellow and red yarn sew some lights and that's all :)

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Police Car

This crocheted police car is a nice finishing touch to every project for little boys. It can be made for hats, vests, bags or any boy garment.

*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: 100% cotton 
Hook size: 3mm or any suitable for the yarn (hook size conversion chart)

Stitches used: sc, ss, mc, sc2tog

Finished size: 3in (8 cm) wide

Colors used: small amount white, blue, dark blue, black, yellow and red

Abbreviations:

sc - single crochet
ss - slip stitch
mc - magic circle
sc2tog - single crochet decrease

Pattern:

Row 1: With white ch 23, sc in second st from hook, sc in each ch till end (22 st), turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st till end (22 st), turn. Join blue.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st till end (22 st). Turn.

Row 4 and 5: Repeat row 3

Row 6: Join white again. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st till end. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in next st. Sc in each st till only 2 st left, sc2tog. Turn (20 st).

Row 8: Repeat row 7 (18 st). 

Now make a round of sc with white around the "body" of the car.

It's time to make the upper part. Count 4 st from both sides and mark them with stitch markers, this is where the upper part will be attached.

Join white in one of the markers and ch 22, ss in the marker of the other side.

Turn the work and make a ss in the next st (in the inner st). 

Now make one sc in each ch and finish with a ss in the st next to the first where the chain started (inside the top part again).

Now join yarn in the middle st of the top row (5-6th st if you count the stitches inside the top of the car). See the picture below. Ch 7 and join it in the middle of the cars top (around 11th st).

That's for the car body. 

Wheels:

With white colour - in mc ch 1, sc in the mc, make 7 more sc, end with ss in ch1.
Join black - ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in each st (16 st).
Ch 1, sc in same st, repeat *sc, 2 sc* till end of the round, join the circle with ss.

Lights:
The front and back lights are simply sewn with yellow and red yarn.

Police lights on the top: with red ch 3, sc in second from st from hook, sc.
Join dark blue and ch 2, sc in second st from hook. Now sew it on top of the car.

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PomPom Hat with Truck

This pattern is created for little boys but it can be used for girls with different colours and embelishment) or even adults. It is easily adapted for different hat sizes.


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*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: worsted weight yarn, I used 50% acrylic, 50% wool
Hook size: J/10 or 6mm (hook size conversion chart)

Stitches used: dc, sc, ss

Finished size: toddler (3-6 years), 9in/22cm wide, 9in/22cm height (without the pompom)

Abbreviations:

ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Notes:

The hat is crochet as a rectangle. To control how long will be the finished hat add or remove to the starting chain.

The finished hat is slightly slouchy for a toddler.

There are three colours used - dark brown, brown and beige. The colour is switched every 2 rows and the scheme is dark brown, brown, beige, brown, dark brown, brown etc (brown between every other 2 colours).

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 28, dc in third st from hook, dc till end (26 st). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each st in the back loop only(26 st). Turn.
Row 3-28: Repeat row 2 switching the colour every 2 rows.

Now sew both ends - the back loop only with the front loop of the other side. Check if the hat is wide enough, if this is not the case you may add few more rows and then sew it.

Sew the top of the hat.

Border of the hat - Join dark brown and make a round of sc across the hat's bottom, ss in the end. Ch 1, sc in same st, make another row of sc, repeat one more time (one more round of sc). Cut the yarn and weave in ends.

With brown and a needle sew crosses around the bottom of the hat. Make them equal - cross in one st, skip one st, then another cross. It might take some tries to make them all equals :)

Pom Pom - use yarn with the colours used for the hat to make a pompom. 

The pattern for the truck is here.

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