The Smiley Hat





It is easy, it is colorful, it is fun and lovely and it has no holes - this is the multicolored hat made of linked double crochet stitches. If you are not familiar with the linked double crochet stitch check my photo tutorial on how to make ldc





*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***


This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: Fingering/Sport (I used Alize Bella Batik 100% cotton)
Hook size: 4 mm/G6 (hook size conversion chart)
Stitches used: ldc, hdc, ch
Finished size: Adult


Abbreviations:
ch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
ldc - linked double crochet (tutorial here)
mc - magic circle
yo - yarn over

Note: This pattern is worked continuosly in rounds - do not ss to join the rows, you will need to use stitch markers to mark the starting stitch. 





Pattern:

Start with mc, ch 3, insert the hook in the second loop from stitch and pull a loop through. Now insert the hook in the mc and pull another loop through it. You will now have 3 loops on the hook - finish off like a normal dc stitch (yo, pull through the first 2 loops, then yo and pull through the second 2 loops). Make 8 more ldc stitches in the mc. 

Round 1: Do not finish with ss - instead continue with a ldc in the 3rd chain of the starting ch3 and put a stitch marker there. Make ldc in the same st. Continue the round with 2 ldc in each st (20 ldc at the end of the round). Do not ss to join.

Round 2: Make ldc on top of the first st of round 1(where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc in next st, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with 1 ldc (30 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 3: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc, ldc, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 2 stitches (40 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 4: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc, ldc, ldc, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 3 stitches (50 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 5: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc, ldc, ldc, ldc, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 4 stitches (60 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 6: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc, ldc, ldc, ldc, ldc, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 5 stitches (70 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 7: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc in next 6 st, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 6 stitches (80 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 8: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc in next 7 st, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 7 stitches (90 ldc at the end of the round).

Round 9: Make ldc on top of the first st of the previous round (where the marker is), make another ldc in the same stitch, move the marker on the new stitch. Continue with * ldc in next 8 st, 2 ldc in next st* till the end of the round, finish the round with ldc in last 8 stitches (100 ldc at the end of the round).

Now is the time for some measuring - the crown of the hat should be now around 7 in/17.5 cm. If this is the case stop the increasing row and continue with the pattern below, if it is too small make another increase row - add another 10 stitches spread evenly. If you want to make a smaller hat make a smaller crown before continuing the pattern.

Round 10 - 25: Work 1 ldc in every st, when you reach the marker make a new ldc stitch and move the marker on it.

Measure again the hat - if this is the size you need when you reach the marker finish with ldc, hdc, sc, ss, ss.

Last row: Join new contrast color and make a row of hdc.

That's all :)


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Linked Textured Headband




I'm so in love with the structure created by the linked double crochet stitches - it is unusual, stylish and the most important - there is no holes like with the standard double crochet stitches. It is as fast to crochet as with the double crochet stitch and very easy to learn.

If you are not familiar with the linked double crochet stitch check my tutorial here.

This headband is a combination of row with ldc and ss and is made in rows, at the very end I've made two button holes on one side and sewed buttons on the other side.

From the right side:




And from the wrong side:



I like how the wrong side of the crochet work looks like - it is unusual and much more different from any other stitch combination.

If you like it like I do here comes the pattern...


*** This pattern is free. You may sell the products you make from my patterns but not the pattern itself. If you sell items from this pattern please link back to this post. Do not copy and repost this pattern or any of the photos and claim them as your own. ***

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

Yarn: Worst weight yarn
Hook size: 6 mm/ J (hook size conversion chart)
Stitches used: ldc, ss, sc
Finished size: To fit adult's head, can be adapted to any size

Abbreviations:
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
ldc - linked double crochet
yo - yarn over

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 75 (or the appropriate number of stitches to fit the size you need), sc in second st from hook, sc till end, turn. 

Row 2: Ch 3, insert the hook in the second ch, yo and pull a loop through (2 loops on the hook). Insert the hook in the next st, yo and pull a loop (3 loops on the hook). Now finish like a normal double crochet - yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through the rest 2 loops. 
Continue with ldc st till the end of the row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, ss loosely in next st, ss till the end. If you can't crochet loosely just change the hook with a size up. Turn.

Repeat row 2 and 3 five more times.

Finish with a row of sc.

Make a row of sc across the width of the headband. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. 




Button holes:
Turn the headband on the opposite side and make a row of sc across the width, turn (14 st) . Now make button holes - ch 1, sc in same st, sc, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 4 st, ch 3, sk 3 st, sc in last two st, turn. Ch 1, sc, sc, 3 sc in the ch space, sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in chain space, sc in last two st. 
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Instead of buttons you may simply join both ends of the headband and put some embelishment or work the headband in rounds.


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